Day 8: Kirkby Stephen to Keld

Boggy.  Day 8 was very boggy.  It was also sunny, peaceful and revealed one of the most gorgeous valleys we’ve seen so far (once we got out of the peat bog, that is).

Megan has had some serious blister issues, her knee injury caused us to buy a bandage back in Grasmere, but the blisters now had invited all their blister friends to stay, so we thought we’d better see if any of the shops in Kirkby Stephen could help before we set off.  Turns out the boots she bought were a full size too big, and this was causing them to bend in the wrong place – right across her toes.  Another pair of Keen Trail shoes later (the ‘old’ pair of boots having been donated to the charity shop, mud and all) and hopefully she at least won’t have gotten any new blisters today.  The ‘old’ pair were only a week old, and the moral of the story is… get your boots fitted properly in the first place! Difficult in Penrith, but lesson learned. 

On the plus side, her original injured knee seems better, but by overcompensating with the other leg, the other knee has now started giving her trouble so today she had to swap the bandage over.  Grrr.

We couldn't coordinate our happy/miserable photo

I don’t think the boggy terrain helped with the situation; you have to pull your foot out of it as it tries to suck you under, like quicksand.  It seemed to inflict a new knee injury for me as well – downhill became a bit of a challenge but flat terrain and hills aren’t too bad. Ho hum.  I’m hoping a good night’s rest will sort that out for me.

Anyway, apart from the aches and pains it was an interesting walk.  We met a man who had set up a temporary radio mast at the top of a marilyn (which are British hills which have a clear drop of 500 feet or 150m all round). so that he could talk to other mad people with radio masts.  Interestingly, the first thing he said is, “Do you want to know how far away the furthest person is that I’ve spoken to today? A guy Wayne, in Maine.”  I kid you not.  My question, ‘A guy called Wayne, in Maine, or a guy in Wayne, Maine?’ seemed to confuse him.

I've looked him up and it turns out he is called Wayne, and he's from Naples, Maine.  How very strange the world is sometimes.

We also met a group of men who were out walking together. Not quite sure what their story was, I was sure they were seasoned walkers (maps, boots, chatting away) until they checked, ‘Do you know where we are?’.  John helped them out with their OS Map, the ‘leader’ clearly unhappy that he couldn’t find the cart track we were on, on the map. Meanwhile one of his followers was saying, ‘Well, this isn’t very good. Our first day, and we’ve only come this far because we’ve followed other people!’  They were laughing though, and having a good time, which is more

 than we all were by that point. (Knees, blisters etc). 

We have arrived in Yorkshire (so Pat and Jack are in their home county), we’ve passed the ‘watershed’ so from now on all rivers flow East, to the North Sea, and we’ve also crossed the Pennines. We have passed our half way point as well, and we have walked for 8 days – only 7 more days of walking until we get to Robin Hood’s Bay.  Monumental information, I know. I don’t know how you are containing your excitement.  We shall raise a glass to ourselves tonight, anyway!

Swaledale is the most beautiful valley, it’s all rolling green fields and ravines.  There are barns dotted about every three fields (the boundaries being limestone walls, so picturesque).  I absolutely love it.   

A couple of miles before Keld, we arrived at Ravenseat Farm – which had been temptingly been suggested in the walking guide as a place to rest, get teas or coffees and possibly, if Amanda was around, cream teas (scones and cream).  

Of course, they were closed, but they had thoughtfully put a sign out inviting walkers to refill water bottles, use the toilet; we took the opportunity to also make a fuss over the horse.

 If cream teas were on offer, I would have been in like a shot.  Nevertheless, a beautiful spot in a hidden little valley, what lucky people. 

We must walk for two more (slightly shorter) days before reaching Richmond, where we get a rest day – hooray!   I think we are all looking forward to that – we will be, literally, limping into Richmond at this rate.

Keld Lodge was a welcome sight at the end of the days walk, and apart from nearly poking out the eye of a fellow guest with my Leki stick on arrival (an accident, and I didn’t ‘get’ her), we got checked in, found our rooms and the drying room for our boggy boots, and have started to recover from the day’s exertions. The views from the rooms are stunning, rooms are comfortable and food is served here. No more walking today.  I am hoping for a delicious pudding as well today, as it’s my birthday. That’s today’s excuse. Tomorrow… who knows? Day after my birthday?